Introduction to Pattern Technology

Griselda Jevon
0353958

Bachelor of Fashion Design Technology

Semester 3

Digital Sketchbook : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19BX9dj3SVx9I8C6_QxXLR_2jvG8zA4Eu/view?usp=drivesdk

Lookbook : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BLVuN4lnSRLQYAhUZv8who_5rwz2U0j5/view?usp=drivesdk

Acknowledgement

I extend my gratitude to the lecturers, especially Mr. JR and Dr. Alshaimaa for their inspiring guidance during my third semester in Fashion Design Technology. Your dedication and constructive feedback have been important in shaping my creative journey. I appreciate the invaluable lessons and inspiration, propelling me forward as a developing fashion designer. 

WEEK 1 - WEEK 4 (01/09/2023 - 22/09/2023)

INTRODUCTION & BRIEFING

On the first weeks of the semester, we are introduced to the subject, learning outcomes, assessment strategy, and the timeline for submission. Dr. Shaimaa introduced us to a pattern system, Lectra. We are required to explore the system by doing the class activities. I learned about the basic tools and main functions of Lectra like how to create lines, curves, points, shapes, adding seams, and many more. We also required to create models for assignment 1 and digitizing pattern look 1 for assignment 2. I did a basic block and variation patterns for assignment 1. It was not easy at all at first, but after starting to memorize all the functions, I started to feel comfortable using the system. 

WEEK 5 - WEEK 14 (29/09/2023 - 29/11/2023)

After completing assignment 1, I need to start to work on my 3 looks starting with the constructions. I presented my look 1 design and the technical drawing to Dr. Shaimaa. To create the toil, I put on draping tape according to my technical drawing and drape the calico on dummy following the draping tape lines. Then I mark all the lines and cut the calico (adding seam allowances). I sew all the patterns together and check the fit on a dummy. I tried to drape the pattern myself on calico and with Dr. Shaimaa’s help, I was able to achieve the patterns based on the look that I want.

Toil Look 1 - front view

Toil Look 1 - back view

Toil Look 1 - left view

Toil Look 1 - right view

After finishing the toil, I presented it to Dr. Shaimaa and she suggested me to add horsehair to the top part of the corset to make it more structured.

Moving onto the next look, I also did the same thing for the other female look, but only drape the calico half dummy.

Look 2 on calico

Look 2 on calico

After I got all the patterns, I transfered them onto mahjong paper and proceed to trace and cut on my actual fabric. For this semester, I chose a cream textured jakat for the corset and skirt base, and shining silk for the additional skirt and men’s skirt.

Tracing Patterns on Actual Fabric

For the first look, I started with cutting each of the corset panels 2 pieces. I combine each of the pieces together and put a rope in between and stitch on top of the first layer fabric. Before stitching it, I marked the lines and curves that I want. I do the same thing to the other panels. I faced some difficulties to sew the panels together since i have to connect the lines, but I did it somehow! 

Front Center Panel

Stitching the panels together

Pin all panels together

After I finished the corset, I added a horse hair on top of the corset lines to make it more structured. Then I proceed to do the skirt, putting zippers, linings, drape the additional fabric on the skirt and finished the hems.

Test Fit - Corset Look 1

Moving onto the second look, I started to cut my actual fabric since I did the patterns before. For this look, I’m using a black cotton for the bust part and the same jakat material that I use for the first look for the rest part of the dress. I also did my sleeve drafting on mahjong paper and trace them on the black cotton. 

For this look, Im using quilting technique for the dress using batting in between 2 fabrics. I draw the lines and the hieroglyphic patterns first then I sew them one by one. After that, I finished the dress by stitching the zipper and lining. For the sleeves, Mr. JR suggested me to add a layer of net to make it more puffy. So I gathered the net and hand stitch it onto the sleeves and stitch the sleeves onto the sides of the dress.

Drafting Sleeve Pattern

Look 2 - Quilting Process

Look 2 - Quilting

Look 2 - Test Fit

Look 2 - Sleeves Added

For the men’s look, I am using black cotton material. I started off with drafting the blazer pattern. I cut the front darts to create slits and adjust the back part so it has open slit with overlapping pattern on the neck till shoulder part. For this look, I’m using quilting technique on the back side of the blazer. I do the same way like I did on the third look. 

After done with quilting, I sew the panels all together and finished it with lining. Moving onto the last piece of the garment, I drape the men’s skirt on the dummy and created pleats on the waist part. Then I sew the pleats together and added zipper as well as waist band to finish the skirt.

Marking the Fabric

Pinning on Dummy

Quilted Back Blazer Detail

Test Fit

Presentation Day

My Kakak wearing the third look ^^

Presentation Day - Runway

On presentation day, I didn’t make it to finish all the garments finishing, so Mr. JR gave me extra time to finish it. I do the hems, all hand stitching, and cut the men’s skirt shorter. Below are my 3 finished garments.

Look 1

Look 2

Look 3

END OF SEMESTER 3