SEMESTER 3 - NEEDLE CRAFT
Griselda Jevon
0353958
Bachelor of Fashion Design Technology
Semester 3
Digital Sketchbook : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19BX9dj3SVx9I8C6_QxXLR_2jvG8zA4Eu/view?usp=drivesdk
Acknowledgement
I extend my gratitude to the lecturers, especially Mr. JR and Dr. Alshaimaa for their inspiring guidance during my third semester in Fashion Design Technology. Your dedication and constructive feedback have been important in shaping my creative journey. I appreciate the invaluable lessons and inspiration, propelling me forward as a developing fashion designer.
WEEK 1 (30/08/2023)
INTRODUCTION & BRIEFING
On the first week of semester 3, Mr. JR starts with giving us introduction and briefing about this semester’s theme which is “Needle Craft”. We were told to do research and mind map about needle work. He also gave us some sketchbook examples to refer to. After doing research about needle craft, we were told to choose a subject matter and research on techniques that i plan to do on my manipulations.
I started to do my research by collecting pictures, informations, and watching videos in youtube that are related to needle work. Next, Mr. JR also told us to start working on our conceptual story within 250 words that explain my vision on this project, wether i want this collection to be spring/summer or autumn/winter collection. Mr. Jr mentioned that we need to compile all of our research in PDF form and present it the next week to get his approval.
WEEK 2 (06/09/2023)
RESEARCH & DESIGN CONSTRUCTION
A. Mind Mapping / Research
For the upcoming presentation to Mr. JR on the next week, I essentially need to present two mind maps outlining my plans. The first mind map will cover research on needle crafts, encompassing definitions, techniques, examples, and methods. The second mind map will focus on the chosen subject matter, incorporating the designer's vision, interpretation, story imagination, and manipulation ideas that align with the concept of needle craft.
Needle Craft (the brief & research)
Needlecraft refers to the creation of decorative or functional items using a needle and thread. This versatile craft encompasses various techniques such as sewing, embroidery, knitting, crocheting, and other forms of textile manipulation. In needlecraft, artisans use different types of needles, threads, and fabrics to create intricate designs, patterns, and textures.
Sewing involves joining fabrics together using a needle and thread, often to make clothing or accessories. Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric with needle and thread, creating intricate patterns or pictures. Knitting and crocheting involve creating fabric from yarn using special needles or hooks. These crafts allow for the production of garments, accessories, and even decorative items. Needlecraft is both a practical skill for creating functional items and a form of artistic expression. It requires precision, creativity, and patience, making it a popular hobby for those who enjoy working with textiles and crafting by hand.
Since earliest times, needles and yarns have been used to make a whole range of articles from everyday clothing to beautiful works of art. Sewing or embroidery was regarded as a recreation, though for some it was often a necessary one to be enjoyed after the day's chores were finished. Grander folk, with more time on their hands, could pass the hours pleasantly making beautiful and intricate scenes or patterns with needles and thread. Beautiful needlework is not a thing of the past; once techniques have been mastered it is not difficult to produce very attractive contemporary designs that future generations will look at with as much admiration as we now regard needle craft work from former years.
With the advent of machines, life became easier for people generally. Fabrics could now be bought rather than woven at home and there was no longer any need to hand-decorate them as it became possible for designs to be printed on a range of fabrics. Many old techniques were forgotten and fewer people looked to needle craft for either enjoyment or utilitarian purposes.
Beautiful needle work is not a thing of the past; once techniques have been mastered it is not difficult to produce very attractive contemporary designs that future generations will look at with as much admiration as we now regard needle craft work from former years. Designers use needle work to add unique touch & exclusivity to their collections (Haute Couture, hand crafted garments, embellishments). It allow designers to manipulate fabrics in various ways and be used to evoke specific historical/cultural references in a collection (reinassance, victorian, egyptian, etc).
Needle work includes :
• Quilting
• Patchwork
• Applique
• Embroidery
• Blackwork
• Canvas work, including Berlin wool work
• Counted-thread embroidery
• Cross-stitch
• Darning
• Drawn thread work
• Machine embroidery
• Crochet
• Knitting
• Lucet
• Tatting
• fabric Making
• Marbling on fabric
• Felt making
• Silk painting
• Smocking
• Braiding and Tassel making
On the above note, we were tasked to design one High-End-RTW collection consists of 3 looks inspired from all the basic techniques from the ‘Needle Craft’ concept. Mr. JR told us to start to do a detail and in-depth research on chosen specific subject matter which aligned with theme for this semester that i interpreted in my own concept inspiration. Following with finding a few texture manipulation that is aligned with my story/subject matter and start to make a plan on what to do or to get for the resources. We are required to symbolise a logic relevance onto the fabric manipulation, texture or any elements that can exhale a message through their individual story (metaphor) in our RTW collection.
Mind Mapping 1 - Research on “Needle Work”
Egyptian Mythology (chosen subject matter)
Egyptian mythology is the collection of myths from ancient Egypt, which describe the actions of the Egyptian gods as a means of understanding the world around them. The beliefs that these myths express are an important part of ancient Egyptian religion. Myths appear frequently in Egyptian writings and art, particularly in short stories and in religious material such as hymns, ritual texts, funerary texts, and temple decoration. These sources rarely contain a complete account of a myth and often describe only brief fragments. It was the belief structure and underlying form of ancient Egyptian culture from at least 4000 BCE to 30 BCE with the death of Cleopatra VII, the last ruler of the Ptolemaic Dynasty of Egypt. Every aspect of life in ancient Egypt was informed by the stories which related to the creation of the world and the sustaining of that world by the gods.
Looking at my subject matter which is “Egyptian Mythology”, I’m planning to focus on its ancient language “hieroglyphics”. The ancient Egyptians use their hieroglyphic language to tell their mythological stories. This language is a series of pictographic symbols. It is widely considered to be history’s first example of a written language. Decoding this alphabet revealed ancient Egyptian stories about life at the time, beliefs about the afterlife, kings, wars, and plague. The stories also revealed the evolving complexities of storytelling such as humor and satire. Hieroglyphs take the form of pictures, each representing an entire word, syllable, or phoneme (the units of sound from which spoken language is built). The Ancient Egyptians referred to these scripts as “the gods’ words”. Hieroglyphs are always read from top to bottom but sometimes you start on the left side (like in English) and sometimes on the right. The animals, birds or people used in hieroglyphs always face the beginning of the sentence so that tells you where to start. I am planning on using this language’s symbols and pictures as my manipulation ideas by doodling the symbols into forms of shapes using needle craft techniques along with some modern patterns inspired from the modern building & sculpture textures.
Below shown the mind maps of my subject matter research :
Mind Mapping 2 - Research on Subject Matter
WEEK 3 (13/09/2023) & 4 (20/09/2023)
RESEARCH & DESIGN CONSTRUCTION
FABRIC MANIPULATION & TEXTURE SAMPLING
Starting on the third week, we were told to start doing our initial ideas and development. Mr. JR advised us to do research on manipulation and do our texture sampling first. Once we have our manipulation and ideas on real fabric surface, it’s gonna be easier for us to develop the 10 initial ideas starting with the photomontage technique. To do photomontage, I need to take pics of my sampling on dummy to be cropped and doodled.
To implement the fabric sourcing tips shared by the lecturer, I had to locate images from my research and analyze potential color palettes for experimentation. This involved selecting colors that harmonize with the hues in my subject matter's color palette. As I initiated the experimentation process with the chosen materials for texture sampling, I moved on to the photomontage phase. Here, I carefully selected intriguing segments from images of my subject matter's structure and creatively incorporated them onto a figure template. This allowed me to compose and refine silhouettes in line with my envisioned design, doodling and sketching onto the initial drapes images to develop my unique interpretation of ideas.
Designer’s Vision on Texture Sampling
On this following week, Mr. JR also told us to do ur mood board and conceptual story.
B. Mood Board
1. Fashion Editorial Images
Fashion editorial images are photographs or visual representations that showcase clothing, accessories, and style in a creative and editorial manner. They are typically featured in fashion magazines, online publications, and advertising campaigns. Fashion editorials are different from regular product or catalog photographs, as they aim to evoke a particular mood, tell a story, or convey a concept or artistic vision. These images often feature professional models, elaborate styling, and high-fashion designs. They are created by a team of professionals, including photographers, stylists, makeup artists, and art directors, who work together to create visually captivating and thought-provoking imagery. Below are the fashion editorials that I found related to my collection.
2. Subject Matter Ideas
The subject matter for this semester is Egyptian Mythology, focusing on its ancient language hieroglyphics and modern sculpture & buildings texture. Below are the pictures of my subject matter.
3. Color Research
As I’m doing a collection inspired by ancient egypt, I choose some tone colours that are related to my subject matter. The main color for this collection are cream, different tones of gold, and black.
4. Designer’s Inspiration
For this collection, I was inspired by some designers like Schiaparelli, Kim Kassas, and Elie Saab. I also took many inspirations from pinterest for my fabric manipulations.
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2015
Kim Kassas Fall 2023
Elie Saab Couture Fall/Winter 2017
5. Texture Sampling
I am planning to do quilting and cording technique for this collection. Quilting is a method of stitching layers of material together. While cording embroidery is a specialist embroidery technique, which let us to sew on materials, patterns made of ribbons, beads, cords or decorative chains.
6. Typography
After collecting fashion editorial images, subject matter images, color research, designer inspiration, and texture sample, i gathered the images to create the mood board. I named this collection as “Pharaoh’s Glyphs”.
Mood Board Final Outcome
C. Conceptual Story Narrative
In Ancient Egyptian, hieroglyphics are a system of writing used by ancient Egyptians. The word "hieroglyphic" comes from two Greek words: "hieros" meaning "sacred," and "glypho" meaning "to carve." This writing system is characterized by a combination of logographic and alphabetic elements, where symbols represent words, sounds, or concepts. In hieroglyphics, a single symbol can represent a whole word, an idea, or even a sound. They were typically inscribed on walls, monuments, papyrus scrolls, and various objects.
Back then, Egyptian temples were religious structures dedicated to the gods and goddesses of ancient Egyptian mythology. They were central to Egyptian religious life and were used for various religious ceremonies, rituals, and offerings. These temples remain some of the most enduring architectural achievements in human history and continue to be a source of fascination and study for historians, archaeologists, and enthusiasts around the world.
In this collection, I want to show people that behind egyptian’s beauty there are amazing stories that people might not know. Through hieroglyphics patterns, picture of stories inspired from the temples, and ancient stories i want to create fabric manipulations using several techniques like quilting, inverted slashing, etc. Aside from this ancient inspired texture, I want to give my collection a modern touch by adding some fabric manipulations that are inspired by the modern egyptian building & sculpture textures along with modern silhouettes. With this ancient and modern concept, I have decided to do a spring/summer collection called “Pharaoh’s Glyphs”.
WEEK 5 (27/09/2023) & 6 (04/10/2023)
FABRIC MANIPULATION & TEXTURE SAMPLING
DESIGN CONSTRUCTION - PHOTOMONTAGE, IDEA & COLOUR DEVELOPMENT
On this week, I start to do my first manipulation that inspired from the hieroglyphics. I started with looking through pinterest to find the patterns that i wanna use. I found some hieroglyphics alphabet in different kind of fonts. I tried to draw each alphabet to see which one that i like.
My Pinterest Board - Hieroglyphics Patterns
After collecting ideas, I compiled every pic from pinterest that picture my ideas on the first texture sampling. Im planning to doodle each hieroglyphics alphabet in different sizes and positions to create some pattern. First, I draw each of the hieroglyphics alphabets, each alphabet in different layers. Next, I place every layers in different place creating a doodles of hieroglyphics. After trying several times, I came up with one doodle design. After its approved by Mr. JR, I printed the design and traced it on black satin fabric. I wanna do quilting technique for this manipulation so I’m using flat stuffing in between 2 fabrics before stitching the patterns from top according to the design that i traced before. After stitching all the patterns, I cut the excess fabric following the pattern outline and overlocked it.
Concept Board - First Sampling
Doodling Process
Design Result
Process - Tracing Design
Texture Sampling 1 Result
Texture Sampling 1 on Dummy
Moving onto the next sampling, I’m planning to do the same technique for both second and third sampling which is the cording technique. I was inspired by the egyptian modern buildings’ wall texture. As what I mentioned before, I wanted to make a combination of ancient and modern touch for my collection. According to my research, egyptian buildings nowadays are no longer use hieroglyphics on their walls. They use modern graphics such as lines and curves on their walls. I’m gonna use this texture of lines and curves and interpret it into my fabric manipulation using cording technique.
Cording embroidery is a specialist embroidery technique, which let us to sew on materials, patterns made of ribbons, beads, cords or decorative chains (e.g. metal or plastic chains). To do this technique, I need to draw the lines and curves the way I wanted on the fabric, then I cut the same size of fabric to make it 2 layers so I can sew the ropes in between the 2 fabrics. Before sewing the lines on top, I need to pin it first to make sure that the fabric doesn’t move. After I sew every lines with thin ropes in between, it’s going to show a 3d effect from the top of the fabric.
Inspiration from Pinterest
Process of Sampling 2 - Pinning
Process of Sampling 2 - Stitching
Process of Sampling 2
Texture Sampling 2 Result
Texture Sampling 2 on Dummy
Texture Sampling 3 on Dummy
Texture Sampling 3 - Details
After finishing all my 3 texture samplings, I use mounting board as a frame and submit it to Mr. JR and proceed to do my initial design and development.
3 Texture Sampling
WEEK 7 - WEEK 9 (11, 18, 25/10/2023)
DESIGN CONSTRUCTION - DEVELOPMENT, FINISH DRAWING, TECHNICAL
D. Design Constructions
1. Initial Ideas & Developments
After done with the 3 texture samplings, I started to draw my initial ideas by using photomontage technique. Photomontage is a technique in which different photographs or images are combined together to create a single, unified composition. It involves cutting, rearranging, and overlapping various elements to form a new visual narrative or artistic representation. The resulting image can be surreal, conceptual, or creatively imaginative, often conveying a unique message or emotion that goes beyond the individual pictures used in the process. Photomontage has been widely used in art, advertising, and editorial contexts to create visually engaging and thought-provoking compositions. Using this technique, I created 5 initial ideas by cropping the texture sampling images.
Moving onto initial developments, Mr. JR instructed us to develop 10 initials from the 5 ideas before. From the 10 developments. I also created 3 developments into men’s wear.
2. Finalised Design
After showing and consulting my 10 developments with Mr. JR, he approved 2 women’s wear and 1 men’s wear. He asked me to finalised my three looks as well as the front and back designs. Below are the finalised designs. The 1st look was inspired by the beauty of Queen Cleopatra. The manipulations are all over the structured corset. While the second look is inspired by the Egyptian fashion itself where long skirt are popular for men. I also added a sleeveless blazer with a double slit in front and one on the back. This look will be looking a bit plain from the front, but on the back I added the hieroglyphics manipulation on the blazer. For the last look, I did something more modern, a mini two-toned mini dress with both manipulation all over the dress and dramatic puffy sleeves.
3 Finalised Design
Front & Back Look 1
Front & Back Look 2
Front & Back Look 3
4. Technical Drawing
Technical drawings are very important in the fashion design process. It shows the pattern cutter shape of the garment when laid flat. The technical drawing allows you to keep design lines and details in real size as the drawings are presented with correct body proportions. Below are the technicals that I did.
WEEK 10 (01/11/2023) & WEEK 11 (08/11/2023)
E-PORTFOLIO
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION - PATTERN DRAFTING/CUTTING/SEWING
On these following weeks, I started to do my 3 garments. Starting from look 1, I did a toil for this look using calico fabric to test the fit. To create the toil, I put on draping tape according to my technical drawing and drape the calico on dummy following the draping tape lines. Then I mark all the lines and cut the calico (adding seam allowances). I sew all the patterns together and check the fit on a dummy. I also did the same thing for the other female look, but only drape the calico half dummy. After I get the fit that I want, I traced all patterns onto mahjong paper and mark them all so I don’t get confuse.
Toil Look 1 - front view
Toil Look 1 - back view
Toil Look 1 - left view
Toil Look 1 - right view
Look 2 on calico
Look 2 on calico
After I got all the patterns, I transfered them onto mahjong paper and proceed to trace and cut on my actual fabric. For this semester, I chose a cream textured jakat for the corset and skirt base, and shining silk for the additional skirt and men’s skirt.
Tracing Patterns on Actual Fabric
Front Center Panel
Stitching the panels together
Pin all panels together
Test Fit - Corset Look 1
Moving onto the second look, I started to cut my actual fabric since I did the patterns before. For this look, I’m using a black cotton for the bust part and the same jakat material that I use for the first look for the rest part of the dress. I also did my sleeve drafting on mahjong paper and trace them on the black cotton.
For this look, Im using quilting technique for the dress using batting in between 2 fabrics. I draw the lines and the hieroglyphic patterns first then I sew them one by one. After that, I finished the dress by stitching the zipper and lining. For the sleeves, Mr. JR suggested me to add a layer of net to make it more puffy. So I gathered the net and hand stitch it onto the sleeves and stitch the sleeves onto the sides of the dress.
Drafting Sleeve Pattern
Look 2 - Quilting Process
Look 2 - Quilting
Look 2 - Test Fit
Look 2 - Sleeves Added
WEEK 12 - WEEK 14 (15/11/2023 - 29/11/2023)
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION - PATTERN DRAFTING/CUTTING/SEWING
For the men’s look, I am using black cotton material. I started off with drafting the blazer pattern. I cut the front darts to create slits and adjust the back part so it has open slit with overlapping pattern on the neck till shoulder part. For this look, I’m using quilting technique on the back side of the blazer. I do the same way like I did on the third look.
After done with quilting, I sew the panels all together and finished it with lining. Moving onto the last piece of the garment, I drape the men’s skirt on the dummy and created pleats on the waist part. Then I sew the pleats together and added zipper as well as waist band to finish the skirt.
Marking the Fabric
Pinning on Dummy
Quilted Back Blazer Detail
Test Fit
Presentation Day
My Kakak wearing the third look ^^
Presentation Day - Runway
On presentation day, I didn’t make it to finish all the garments finishing, so Mr. JR gave me extra time to finish it. I do the hems, all hand stitching, and cut the men’s skirt shorter. Below are my 3 finished garments.
Look 1
Look 2
Look 3
E. Customer Profile and Business Plan
A customer profile in the fashion industry refers to a detailed description of the target audience or ideal customers for a fashion brand or business. It includes demographic information such as age, gender, location, and income, as well as psychographic data like interests, lifestyle, and preferences. Understanding the customer profile helps fashion businesses tailor their products, marketing strategies, and branding to meet the specific needs and desires of their target audience.
While business plan in the fashion industry is a comprehensive document that outlines the goals, strategies, and financial projections of a fashion-related business. It includes an executive summary, company description, market analysis, competitive research, product offerings, marketing and sales strategies, operational plans, and financial forecasts. A well-crafted business plan serves as a roadmap for the fashion business, helping entrepreneurs secure funding, make informed decisions, and achieve long-term success.
1. Customer Profile
Demographics:
- Age Range: 25-45 years old
- Gender: Primarily Female, Fashion-forward Males
- Occupation: Creative professionals, entrepreneurs, executives, and individuals with a strong sense of personal style.
- Location: Urban and cosmopolitan areas globally.
Psychographics:
- Fashion Enthusiasts: Individuals with a passion for unique, statement pieces that reflect their personality.
- Cultural Appreciators: Those who value and celebrate diverse cultures, with a particular interest in ancient Egyptian history and mythology.
- Social Influencers: Active on social media, engaged in fashion communities, and influencers who appreciate and set trends.
- Lifestyle: Leading dynamic, socially active lives with a taste for luxury and cultural exploration.
Personal Style:
- Bold and Confident: Customers who embrace bold fashion choices, seeking garments that make a statement.
- Versatile Stylists: Appreciate pieces that can transition seamlessly from day to evening events.
Shopping Behavior:
- Seeking Exclusivity: Customers who value limited-edition and exclusive pieces.
- Online Shoppers: Comfortable with e-commerce platforms, eager to explore and purchase unique fashion online.
- Luxury Consumers: Willing to invest in premium, high-quality couture that reflects craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Occasions and Lifestyle:
- Event-Goers: Attend social events, galas, and cultural gatherings where standout fashion is celebrated.
- Professional Engagements: Garments suitable for work functions, business meetings, and professional appearances.
- Travel Enthusiasts: Individuals who appreciate fashion that complements their travel experiences, blending cultural influences seamlessly.
Values:
- Individuality: Customers who value expressing their unique identity through their fashion choices.
- Cultural Appreciation: A connection with fashion that transcends trends, rooted in the appreciation of ancient cultures.
Influences:
- Art and Culture: Those inspired by art, history, and cultural elements reflected in their fashion choices.
- Royalty Aesthetics: Drawn to the regal and sophisticated elements inspired by the beauty of Pharaohs, especially Queen Cleopatra.
- Fashion-forward Thinkers: Customers who follow and are influenced by global fashion trends and influencers.
2. Business Plan: RTW Couture Collection “Pharaoh’s Glyphs”
Griselda Jevon, a custom-made fashion brand specialising in evening looks.
- Emphasise the unique selling proposition of personalised, one-to-one customer service and exquisite designs inspired by the mentioned looks.
- Highlight the need for a dedicated showroom/boutique that offers fitting consultations and creates a luxurious experience for clients.
Our goal is to outline the logistics of operations, including sourcing premium materials, pattern-making, garment production, and quality control, discuss the team required, such as skilled tailors, pattern makers, designers, and dedicated customer service personnel, and emphasise the importance of excellent customer service and ongoing client relationships.
Introduce "Pharaoh’s Glyphs” a ready-to-wear couture collection blending ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics with modern silhouettes, inspired by the beauty of Pharaohs, particularly Queen Cleopatra.
Business Description:
- Name of Collection: "Pharaoh’s Glyphs"
- Vision: Redefine contemporary fashion by infusing the allure of Egyptian mythology into wearable art.
Product Line:
- Look 1 : Structured corset with tucking manipulation paired with a unique-shaped, flowy skirt and buckle detail.
- Look 2 : Men's look featuring a hieroglyphics-patterned, long skirt paired with a sleeveless blazer with double front slits and one back slit.
- Look 3 : Modern silhouette; two-toned mini dress with hieroglyphics quilted pattern and dramatic puffy sleeves.
Marketing and Branding:
- Leverage social media, influencers, and partnerships to create anticipation and brand recognition.
- Emphasise the storytelling aspect of the collection through online and offline channels.
Financial Projections:
- Estimate startup costs, production expenses, and marketing budget.
- Develop a sales forecast based on market research and pricing strategies.
END OF SEMESTER 3
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