E-PORTFOLIO (WEEKLY PROGRESS)

   

GRISELDA JEVON
0353958
Bachelor of Fashion Design Technology

Semester 2

WEEKLY PROGRESS (WEEK 01-14)

Sketchbook link : click here

WEEK 1 

[Lecture, Tutorial, Practical] 06-04-2023

INTRODUCTION AND BRIEFING 
  --- MIB , ASSIGNMENT, GARMENT DRAPING  AND E-PORTFOLIO

Materials needed :

1. Calico fabric

2. Sewing tool box

On the first week, Ms, Melina introduced us to basic draping. She reviewed us the basic pattern making that we have learned before which is how to define bust, waist, hips, high waist, empire line, low waist, princess line, and other terminology use in garment draping. She also reviewed the terms on fabric such as selvage, grain lines, and true bias. After a short briefing, she instructed us to practice start from draping skirt pattern. We need to drape a skirt pattern using colico fabric on a half size dummy. 

[tutorial session by Ms. Melina]

I started from cutting 2 pieces of fabric as the skirt base pattern and 1 piece for the waist band. Then I drape the fabric on half size dummy by aligning the waist line, hip line, and lastly pinch a bit to create the darts. After I get the dart points, I marked it with pencil. Below are the documentations of my process on draping the skirt. 

[short clip of my process]

[skirt base fabric & waist band pattern]

[skirt pattern after draping on dummy]

WEEK 2

[Lecture, Tutorial, Practical] 13-04-2023

GARMENT DRAPING TERMINOLOGY

Materials needed : 

1. Mahjong paper/Drafting paper

2. Tools for Draping and Ruler kits

3. Boxboard /Cardboard

4. Note

5. Sewing tools

6. Calico/ Muslin

On this week, Ms. Melina taught us more about basic terminology dummy markings which are landmark terms and symbol key. She also showed us how to measure body form, method of basting, fitting, and pattern adjustment. 

She instructed us to finish the skirt pattern first. I traced the skirt pattern on mahjong paper. After that she taught us how to hand sew the skirt and also attach the waist band. 

[skirt pattern on mahjong paper]

[sewed skirt and waist band]

[front view]

[side view]

[back view]

[back waist band details]

After finish stitching the skirt, Ms. Melina instructed us to make a dress form arm for dummy as an addition exercise. She told us to trace her sleeve pattern. I cut 2 layers of colico fabric and transfered the pattern according to the color of the lines which is red and black. After that I stitch the lines using red and black threads, close all the darts, and stitch the sides together. 

[sleeve pattern]

[after sewing the lines and darts]

[after sewing the sides together]

Then we also told to finish the dummy arm by insert the stuffing inside the sleeve and close it with hand stitch. Lastly, we need to sew a piece of fabric to attach the arm onto the dummy.

[top and bottom sleeve pattern]

 [hand stitching the top and bottom sides]

[additional fabric to attach to dummy]

[final results]

For the next exercise, Ms. Melina instructed us to trace her bodice, skirt, and sleeve pattern on card board.

[bodice, skirt, sleeve pattern]

WEEK 3

[Lecture, Tutorial, Practical] 20-04-2023

DRAPING POSITION & PINNING

Materials needed : 

1. Mahjong paper/Drafting paper

2. All tools for Draping and Ruler kits

3. Boxboard /Cardboard

4. Notebook

5. Sewing tools and thread 

6. Calico

On this week, Ms. Melina taught us to do the bodice and princess line draping. She gave us example on how to drape the bodice on half size dummy. First of all, we need to cut 2 piece of fabric and mark the bust line. Then start to drape on dummy by pinning the bust point and waist point. After that we can start to create the darts and mark the points. Ms. Melina also taught us how to cut the fabric to create ease and to make the fabric smooth on dummy.

[2 piece of fabric for bodice pattern]

[bodice back side draping]

[how to create darts and slash fabric]

After draping, Ms. Melina told us to hand sew all the darts, sides, and shoulder together. 

[bodice - front side]

[bodice - back side]

[bodice - front view on dummy]

[bodice - side view on dummy]

[bodice - back view on dummy]

Next on, we were required to drape bodice princess line pattern. Ms. Melina told us to cut 4 piece of calico fabric according to below measurements.

[princess line base fabric size]

Next, i drape the fabric on dummy and marked the princess line, shoulder line, armhole, side line, and waist line. I did this to each both pieces of front and back pattern. Then i hand stitched the princess line to connect the patterns.

[front princess line patterns after draping]

[princess line - front side]

[princess line - back side]

[princess line - front view on dummy]

[princess line - side view on dummy]

[princess line - back view on dummy]

WEEK 4

[Lecture, Tutorial, Practical] 27-04-2023

PUBLIC HOLIDAY (EID)

WEEK 5 

[Replacement Class for Week 4] 27-04-2023

On this week, we continue finishing our fitted dress pattern since we didn’t have class on the past week. For the dress, Ms. Melina told us to cut 2 piece of fabric according to the measurements below. Then she taught us how to drape on dummy and marked the bust line, waist line, hip line, and pinch the fabric to create darts. Next, I hand stitch all the darts and combine front and back sides and shoulder lines together. 

[fitted dress fabric measurement]

[short clip of dress draping process]

[fitted dress - front & back pattern after draped]

Before hand stitching the darts and both sides together, we are told to trace the pattern on mahjong paper. 

[fitted dress pattern on mahjong paper]

[fitted dress - front view on dummy]

[fitted dress - back view on dummy]

After we hand sewed the pattern and try on dummy, Ms. Melina instructed us to start doing lining. So I cut another piece of back pattern and also trace the whole dress pattern on lining. I sewed all the darts, shoulder lines, and sides together and stitch the lining inside the calico. After that i finished the garment with zipper and stitch the hem line.

[stitched dress and lining]

Below are the final garment result after I stitch the lining.

[front view]

[back view]

[front view on dummy]

[left side view on dummy]

[right side view on dummy]

[back view on dummy]

[zipper view on dummy]

[short clip of process]

WEEK 5 & 6

[Lecture, Tutorial, Practical] 04-05-2023, [Lecture, Tutorial, Practical] 11-05-2023

DRAPING TECHNIQUE 1

Materials needed : 

1. Mahjong paper/Drafting paper

2. All tools for Draping and Ruler kits

3. Notebook

4. Sewing tools and thread 

5. Calico

Moving on to the next assignment, we are required to create an experimental garment draping using spontaneous draping process which is the first look for final project on calico. First, I started to draw my technical drawing based my finalised design.

[finalised design]

[technical drawing]

After consulting with Ms. Melina, she told me to start draping on dress form. There are 5 panels for the front side and 4 panels for back side. For this look, I used the cut and slash method of draping. Firstly, I mark the dress form using draping tape according to my technical design. Then I cut a piece of calico and place it on the dress form and mark the lines of the panel. I cut the excess fabric and slash a bit so that the fabric is smooth and precise. I repeated the same process to each panels on front and back sides. I also mark all the bust lines, waist lines, hip lines, and the grain lines.

[draping on calico - front side]

[draping on calico - back side]

After getting the patterns that I want, I transfered the pattern to mahjong paper by tracing it and named all the panels to make it easier for me. I added seam allowances and cut the pattern.

[patterns on calico - front side]

[patterns on calico - back side]

[patterns on mahjong paper - front side]

[patterns on mahjong paper - back side]

WEEK 7 & 8

[Lecture, Tutorial, Practical] 18-05-2023, [Independent Learning] 25-05-2023

DRAPING TECHNIQUE 2 & GARMENT DRAPING

Materials needed :

1. 2 meters habutai

2. 24” zipper

3. Thread

4. Interfacing 

On this week, I continued to do my look 1. After finish cutting all the patterns on mahjong paper, I transfered it to the actual fabric and repeat the same process for interfacing and lining. I also attach the interfacing on the actual fabric before sewing them. 

[actual fabric material - champagne gold jaguar]

[cutting fabric process]

Next, I pin the panels on dummy to check the fit and started to do my manipulation which is the ruching technique. I pinned the manipulation on dummy and started to do my second manipulation. For the second sampling, I tested it first using unused fabric by stitching 3 lines of fishbones along the fabric (on both edges and middle part) and bend it to create a volume. After some trial and errors, I finally did the manipulation on actual fabric. I sew the fishbones and did 2 piece of this manipulation.

[first manipulation]

[second manipulation]

[time lapse of sewing manipulations process]

WEEK 9

[Lecture, Tutorial, Practical] 01-06-2023

DRAPING PROJECT

After I’m done with the manipulations, I sew the front panels together as well as the back, then I sew the manipulations on the base dress and attach both sides of the dress together. I stitched the zipper and attach lining inside. And lastly I close the lining by stitching the hem part. I tested the garment on my friend to check the fit and adjust some errors.

[front view]

[back view]

[side view]

[test fit]

WEEK 10 & 11

[Lecture, Tutorial, Practical] 08-06-2023, [Lecture, Tutorial, Practical] 15-06-2023

DRAPING PROJECT

Moving onto the second look, I repeat the same process which is starting from the technical drawing. For this look, the base pattern is a bodysuit. 

[technical drawing look 2]

After consulting with Mr. JR & Ms. Melina, I start to drape my pattern on dummy using calico. There are 8 panels on the front side & 4 on the back side. For this look, I also used the cut and slash method of draping. Firstly, I mark the dress form using draping tape according to my technical design. Then I cut a piece of calico and place it on the dress form and mark the lines of the panel. I cut the excess fabric and slash a bit so that the fabric is smooth and precise. I repeated the same process to each panels on front and back sides. I also mark all the bust lines, waist lines, hip lines, and the grain lines. After getting the patterns that I want, I transfered the pattern to mahjong paper by tracing it and named all the panels to make it easier for me. I added seam allowances and cut the pattern. 

[calico draping on dummy]

[pattern on mahjong paper - back side - front side]

On this week, I also proceed with my third look. For the third look, I make a mermaid dress as the base pattern. I repeat the same process starting from technical drawing to draping on calico and trace the patterns on mahjong paper. For this look, I forgot to take a pic of the master pattern on mahjong paper.

[technical drawing look 3]

There are 7 panels for the top part & 8 for the mermaid dress. For this look, I used pattern drafting method and adjust the pattern by draping it on dummy. I also mark all the bust lines, waist lines, hip lines, and the grain lines. After getting the patterns that I want, I transfered the pattern to mahjong paper by tracing it and named all the panels to make it easier for me. I added seam allowances and cut the pattern.  Below are the pictures and video of calico draping on dummy.

WEEK 12

[Lecture, Tutorial, Practical] 22-06-2023

DRAPING PROJECT

Moving on the next week, I continue to do my look 2&3. I started to cut my actual fabric for look 2 as well as the interfacing and lining. For this look, I’m using the same material with the first look but in red color. I also attach the interfacing on the actual fabric before sewing them.

[attach interfacing]

[testing on dummy]

[sewing the panels together]

After sewing the base together, I attach lining and start to drape the transparent glitter fabric on top of the base creating a small pleated manipulation. For this look, I also wanted to make a cowl on the back side so I try to drape different ways to test.

[draping manipulation process]

With Mr. JR’s help, I finally get the manipulation I want. I hand stitch the manipulation on the bodysuit and let the fabric flow down to create a robe dress look. Below are the final outcome pictures for look 2.

[front view]

[right side view]

[back view]

[left side view]

WEEK 13

[Public Holiday] 29-06-2023

DRAPING PROJECT

Moving onto the last garment, I started to cut my actual fabric for look 3 as well as the interfacing and lining. For this look, I’m using the same material with the first look. I also attach the interfacing on the actual fabric before sewing them. I overlock all edges and after that, I sew all the panels together and sew the top and bottom part together. 

[base dress look 3]

After sewing the base together, I attach lining and start to drape the burgundy satin fabric on top of the base creating a big pleated manipulation. For this look, I wanted to make a simple one to make it look like an elegant evening dress. After draping the manipulation, I hand stitch it onto the dress and let the lower fabric flow down. I sew the lining inside and close the hem, and its all done!

[front view]

[manipulation detail]

[right side view]

[left side view]

[back view]

On these last weeks, I also focus on my first garment for The Show. When I test the fit on body, it turns out the wire is too heavy and the base dress couldn’t hold the manipulations. After consulting with JR, I decided to add straps to hold the whole garment. I use a bias tape that is fold into half, then I top stitch to close it. After attaching the straps and test the garment again, it finally can hold the dress and the manipulations. 

WEEK 14

[The Show] 06-07-2023

Model fitting 

Final look on runway

The Show is my first fashion show and I’m beyond thankful to get the opportunity to take part in it. I wanted to express my sincere gratitude for Mr. JR and Ms. Melina’s guidance throughout the semester. Your passion for the subject and your commitment to our growth as students have been truly inspiring. Your feedbacks and attention to detail have pushed me to strive for excellence and explore new creative boundaries. I will never stop learning from you guys because your encouragement and belief in my abilities have given me the confidence to pursue my dreams in the fashion industry. I am truly grateful for the countless hours you have dedicated to helping us develop our skills and talents. I can’t wait to learn more and show you more in the next semesters! <3