TASK 03 - E-PORTFOLIO

 

Griselda Jevon

0353958

Bachelor of Fashion Design Technology

Semester 2

WEEKLY PROGRESS (WEEK 01-14)

Sketchbook link : click here

WEEK 1 

[Practical] 03-04-2023

On the first class in this semester, Mr. JR started the class with reviewing last semester’s project. He asked us about what we want to improve in this semester. For me, I want to improve my research skill and time managing. Last semester I've been procrastinating too much and I finished my work in last minute which is very tiring for me. That's why in this semester, I will try to do my work according to the timeline given.

After that, Mr. Jasmi instructed us to set up our e-blog and started to brief us on the MIB for this semester, which is the first assignment. The theme that is given is Organic Geometry - Wearable Architecture. He instructed us to choose a building as an architecture representative of our collection and start to do research on it. He told us to create a mind map, conceptual story, and fabric manipulation and samplings imaginations which include research, texture manipulation, techniques description and planning, followed with images to show how does it look like.

[short clip on feedback & review session]

[briefing session]

After looking through some buildings, I decided to choose Harbin Opera House by MAD architects. I did research on this building and created a mind map with fabric manipulation imaginations. 

[Lecture & Tutorial] 05-04-2023

On this class, Mr. Jasmi asked us to presentate our research and it turns out someone also picked the same building as me. After presenting our ideas, Mr. Jasmi decided that I need to choose another building. So I started to look at more choices. After looking through some other options, I decided to choose Changsha Meixihu International Cultural and Arts Centre. I began to collect informations such as history, philosophy, exterior and interior design explanation, etc. I compiled these informations to create a mind map with images to support the ideas.

[mind map]

For this concept, I took an inspiration from Gaurav Gupta Haute Couture Collection which is a lot of pleated and wavy garments. I also took an inspiration from the building structure which are pleated and curving technique to create a petal-shape volumes and whipped cream flowy texture. Iris Van Herpen’s collection also one of my inspirations to get the ideas for pleating and layering techniques.

[Gaurav Gupta Haute Couture Collection]

[Iris Van Herpen AW19 Couture]

[design visualization]

WEEK 2 

[Practical] 10-04-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 12-04-2023

On the second week, Mr. Jasmi told us to start our manipulation. 

[manipulation concept idea]

For the first manipulation, I wanna use ruching technique and draping it to create the messy draping look. As we have started our manipulation ideas, we decided to buy fabric to experiment. Mr. Jasmi advised me to use satin/organdy for this manipulation. First, I gathered the corner of the fabric, then I drape it on the dress form. After getting the drape that I want, I pinned them all and iron it, took it off from the dummy and invisible sew the lines.

[fabric manipulation 1 - concept]

[first try draping]

[second try draping]

[fabric manipulation 1]

[fabric material - snow organza]

For the second sampling, I planned to make a texture from the exterior design which is the petal shaped and whipped cream texture look alike. I sew 3 lines of fishbones along the fabric (on both edges and middle part) and bend it to create a volume. To get this texture, I tested many times and I went through several trial and errors. After experimenting, I finally achieve the look that I want.

[fabric manipulation 2 - concept]

[fabric manipulation 2]

For the last sampling, I’m using pleating technique that is inspired from the interior design ceilings. For this sampling, I’m still not sure what material i should use, so I use unused fabric to test it. I pleat the fabric and pin them, iron it, and invisible sew the lines.

[fabric manipulation 3 - concept]

[fabric manipulation 3]

[short clip on designing, sewing, and draping the manipulation]

WEEK 3 & 4

[Practical] 17-04-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 19-04-2023

[Public Holiday] 24-04-2023, 26-04-2023

On this week, we continue to create 10 initial developments. I started to do photomontage using the samplings that i have drape and took photo of it to create 5 initial ideas. I also use cropped building structures to do some of the photomontage. 

[initial ideas]

Moving onto initial developments, I develop these designs and create 10 developments. After that, Mr. Jr helped me to choose 2 designs and he instructed me to do more developments. Finally, I get to choose my final 3 looks and proceed to do my garment. Below are my initial developments.

Below are my finalised designs that approved by JR.

WEEK 5 - 7

[Public Holiday] 01-05-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 03-05-2023

[Practical] 08-05-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 10-05-2023

[Practical] 15-05-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 17-05-2023

On these weeks, I proceed with my garments. Starting from technical drawing, draping the base dress on calico, cutting interfacing, lining, and the actual fabric, then lastly sew them all. 

[technical drawing look 1]

After consulting with Ms. Melina, she told me to start draping on dress form. There are 5 panels for the front side and 4 panels for back side. For this look, I used the cut and slash method of draping. Firstly, I mark the dress form using draping tape according to my technical design. Then I cut a piece of calico and place it on the dress form and mark the lines of the panel. I cut the excess fabric and slash a bit so that the fabric is smooth and precise. I repeated the same process to each panels on front and back sides. I also mark all the bust lines, waist lines, hip lines, and the grain lines.

[draping on calico - front side]

[draping on calico - back side]

After getting the patterns that I want, I transfered the pattern to mahjong paper by tracing it and named all the panels to make it easier for me. I added seam allowances and cut the pattern.

[patterns on calico - front side]

[patterns on calico - back side]

[patterns on mahjong paper - front side]

[patterns on mahjong paper - back side]

WEEK 8 & 9

[Practical] 22-05-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 24-05-2023 - INDEPENDENT LEARNING WEEK

[Practical] 29-05-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 31-05-2023

On this week, I continued to do my look 1. After finish cutting all the patterns on mahjong paper, I transfered it to the actual fabric and repeat the same process for interfacing and lining. I also attach the interfacing on the actual fabric before sewing them. 

[actual fabric material - champagne gold jaguar]

[cutting fabric process]

Next, I pin the panels on dummy to check the fit and started to do my manipulation which is the ruching technique. I pinned the manipulation on dummy, iron it, and started to do my second manipulation. For the second sampling, I tested it first using unused fabric by stitching 3 lines of fishbones along the fabric (on both edges and middle part) and bend it to create a volume. After some trial and errors, I finally did the manipulation on actual fabric. I sew the fishbones and did 2 piece of this manipulation.

[first manipulation]

[second manipulation]

[time lapse of sewing manipulation process]

WEEK 10

[Public Holiday] 05-06-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 07-06-2023

After I’m done with the manipulations, I sew the front panels together as well as the back, then I sew the manipulations on the base dress and attach both sides of the dress together. I stitched the zipper and attach lining inside. I also add wire on the second manipulation to make it more structure and perfectly shaped.  And lastly I close the lining by stitching the hem part. I tested the garment on my friend to check the fit and adjust some errors.

[front view]

[back view]

[side view]

[test fit]

WEEK 11

[Practical] 12-06-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 14-06-2023

Moving onto the second look, I repeat the same process which is starting from the technical drawing. For this look, the base pattern is a bodysuit. 

[technical drawing look 2]

After consulting with Mr. JR & Ms. Melina, I start to drape my pattern on dummy using calico. There are 8 panels on the front side & 4 on the back side. For this look, I also used the cut and slash method of draping. Firstly, I mark the dress form using draping tape according to my technical design. Then I cut a piece of calico and place it on the dress form and mark the lines of the panel. I cut the excess fabric and slash a bit so that the fabric is smooth and precise. I repeated the same process to each panels on front and back sides. I also mark all the bust lines, waist lines, hip lines, and the grain lines. After getting the patterns that I want, I transfered the pattern to mahjong paper by tracing it and named all the panels to make it easier for me. I added seam allowances and cut the pattern. 

[calico draping on dummy]

[pattern on mahjong paper - back side - front side]

On this week, I also proceed with my third look. For the third look, I make a mermaid dress as the base pattern. I repeat the same process starting from technical drawing to draping on calico and trace the patterns on mahjong paper. For this look, I forgot to take a pic of the master pattern on mahjong paper.

[technical drawing look 3]

There are 7 panels for the top part & 8 for the mermaid dress. For this look, I used pattern drafting method and adjust the pattern by draping it on dummy. I also mark all the bust lines, waist lines, hip lines, and the grain lines. After getting the patterns that I want, I transfered the pattern to mahjong paper by tracing it and named all the panels to make it easier for me. I added seam allowances and cut the pattern.  Below are the pictures and video of calico draping on dummy.

WEEK 12

[Practical] 19-06-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 21-06-2023

Moving on the next week, I continue to do my look 2&3. I started to cut my actual fabric for look 2 as well as the interfacing and lining. For this look, I’m using the same material with the first look but in red color. I also attach the interfacing on the actual fabric before sewing them.

[attach interfacing]

[testing on dummy]

[sewing the panels together]

After sewing the base together, I attach lining and start to drape the transparent glitter fabric on top of the base creating a small pleated manipulation. For this look, I also wanted to make a cowl on the back side so I try to drape different ways to test.

[draping manipulation process]

With Mr. JR’s help, I finally get the manipulation I want. I hand stitch the manipulation on the bodysuit and let the fabric flow down to create a robe dress look. Below are the final outcome pictures for look 2.

[front view]

[right side view]

[back view]

[left side view]

WEEK 13 & 14

[Practical] 26-06-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 28-06-2023

[Practical] 03-07-2023, [Lecture & Tutorial] 05-07-2023

Moving onto the last garment, I started to cut my actual fabric for look 3 as well as the interfacing and lining. For this look, I’m using the same material with the first look. I also attach the interfacing on the actual fabric before sewing them. I overlock all edges and after that, I sew all the panels together and sew the top and bottom part together. 

[base dress look 3]

After sewing the base together, I attach lining and start to drape the burgundy satin fabric on top of the base creating a big pleated manipulation. For this look, I wanted to make a simple one to make it look like an elegant evening dress. After draping the manipulation, I hand stitch it onto the dress and let the lower fabric flow down. I sew the lining inside and close the hem, and its all done!

[front view]

[manipulation detail]

[right side view]

[left side view]

[back view]

On these last weeks, I also focus on my first garment for The Show. When I test the fit on body, it turns out the wire is too heavy and the base dress couldn’t hold the manipulations. After consulting with JR, I decided to add straps to hold the whole garment. I use a bias tape that is fold into half, then I top stitch to close it. After attaching the straps and test the garment again, it finally can hold the dress and the manipulations. 

THE SHOW

06-07-2023

Model fitting 

Final look on runway

The Show is my first fashion show and I’m beyond thankful to get the opportunity to take part in it. I wanted to express my sincere gratitude for Mr. JR and Ms. Melina’s guidance throughout the semester. Your passion for the subject and your commitment to our growth as students have been truly inspiring. Your feedbacks and attention to detail have pushed me to strive for excellence and explore new creative boundaries. I will never stop learning from you guys because your encouragement and belief in my abilities have given me the confidence to pursue my dreams in the fashion industry. I am truly grateful for the countless hours you have dedicated to helping us develop our skills and talents. I can’t wait to learn more and show you more in the next semesters! <3